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Don't buy an Orbi... firmware removes functionality and causes wifi performance to be terrible...
So I bought my Orbi at the end of 2018... I had a faulty unit to start with but then it got replaced and I got one that worked and set it up. For the most part it kind of worked but frankly their cl...
Channels are limited on the Orbi. Especially on 5Ghz. The upper channels are hidden due to that the 3rd backhaul wifi radios are using these channels, 149 and up. These are not configurable by users and auto used by the system. So this leaves the lower 4 channels on the 2nd 5Ghz radio that users can change.
NG has always been kind of backwards in there naming and check box conventions. So when it comes to Orbi, just remember that having a check in the box ENABLES the feature, taking the check mark out of the box, either disables the feature or in case of the 20/40Mhz Coexistence, changes the feature to 40Mhz only. WMM should always be enabled. I think it is by default even after a factory reset.It's up to wireless devices to pick and choose the signals they connect to. Orbi only provides the platform and singals to connet too.
Bulding materials can cause problems for WiFi signals. Concrete and metal are to great for 5Ghz.
Glad the system is up and running better. I think a reset and setup from scratch when you get time will be all thats needed. Be sure to safe off a new backup configuration to file when you done getting the system back up and running as you like.
Maybe this changes your mind about "Don't buy an Orbi". :smileywink:
Please mark your thread as solved so others will know.
Enjoy. :smileywink:
gtap wrote:Thanks again for the advice. I have already upgraded the firmware now to 2.5.1.8 on all the devices. I will see if I can do the factory reset over the weekend (can't risk it now with my work).
What I still don't get is why they think Orbi users should not manage some of their wifi settings... and why they lable things like WMM not entirely correctly. Did you know that checking that box turns off 802.11ac? As much as I understand (which is limited in truth) that should simply remove the QoS that prioritizes streaming services and not touch the wifi configuration. My R7000 let's me choose channel (even above 100) & mode... did I miss something when those got combined into WMM?
I suppose the good news is I'm back to my usual 200Mbps internet speed again in my office... need to see why it's still though producing poor signal in places... doesn't really make sense to me... the router in my office is less than 5m for a BlueSound PowerNode 2i in the adjacent room and yet the Bluesound device is connecting to the main router which is one floor below and at least 10m away. Makes no sense. In general also if I have one wall the signal drops significantly... I know it will drop but seems like my R7000 copes with walls better. I just feel like I'm not understanding something.
First thanks for trying to help... Yes I have now tried using it as is but was horrific compared to 24 hours ago. (Spoiler alert it was WMM.)
Just to be clear I did not upgrade my firmware yesterday and am on the latest version V2.5.0.38. All I did was uncheck "Enable WMM" and apply... which proceeded to reboot my router.
Prior to that I absolutely had 2 separate SSID's which were configured back in late 2018 via the UI and had picked manual channels on both 2Ghz & 5Ghz. So yes you could in the past configure separate SSID's.
The result of that one change was it wiped my two separate channels now my 2Ghz is set on auto and 5Ghz is set to 36 and it has collapsed my seprate SSID's into one... without me asking it to do that (I'm sure driven by the change in UI and me pressing apply). Do I care that has happened... not if it means I get as good a signal and performance but the reality is it has ruined it... I work from home and all my VoIP calls became broken.
When I went down to my old Netgear router (Nighthawk R7000) in the basement with my relatively new MacBook it immediately connected in ac mode and gave me a great rate. When I went anywhere near any of the Orbi's it refused to connect in anything other than a mode and gave me a horrific performance... yet 24 hours ago it worked just fine and always connected in "ac" mode.
I just don't get why it would stop my devices connecting in "ac" mode as all WMM is supposed to be a form of QoS.
The good news is I have now turned that back on and it has re-enabled "ac" mode... which does not make any sense unless what they are doing is using the UI to fake WMM by forcing ac mode and moving from 40 to 80Mhz.
I would like to understand why I can no longer control my wifi and channels like I did before and why WMM does not really do just WMM but also messes with the wifi type which my understanding is it is not supposed to.
In the end not impressed by Oribi and would not recommend it.
But... thanks for responding and your help.
Gavin
Well, NG pulled v38 last year as everyone complained it broke a few things. So I would first do this, download and manually update to v2.5.1.8 from the download site. Update the RBS first then RBR lastly. Factory reset and setup from scratch. I'm currently using this on my RBK50 and WMM is enabled. Along with Beamforming and MIMO and FastRoaming. 40Mhz Coexistance Only.
I think once your on v2.5.1.8 you'll see a change. Others also report this version being more stable. It also fixes the device naming issue that was found on v38 and v40 which NG pulled.
That's also interesting as I have been sitting here for months clicking on check firmware and it kept coming back to say I had the latest... but as you point out it seems I did not. Feeling a bit dim now not having checked the site too.
Do I really need to setup from scratch (factory default)? Will give it a go without.
I'll give you lots of credit at this point you are restoring my faith somewhat so I appreciate it.
Have you tried their Wifi 6 version yet? Will it make any real difference appart from cost me a fortune :-).
Thanks
Sometimes the Orbi FW check doesn't pick up on updates. I think it also depends on if NG makes it available on there servers.
Try the update first with out a reset, If nothing changes, try the reset and setup from scratch. You should be able to enable Beamforming, WMM, 40Mhz only and MIMO. If you don't have any MIMO supporting devices you can leave this off.
I have both RBK50 and RBK853 online currently.
It has been reported that the v2.5.0.x firmware releases leave some garbage behind. Before doing a factory reset and upgrade to v2.5.1.8, your should do the following:
1) Backup your configuration settings (under Advanced tab -> Administration -> Backup Settings)
2) Take a screenshot of every setup screen that you have customized. This can be used in case you restore settings manually in case the backup file also contains unwanted garbage or clutter (i.e. MAC addresses of old devices that connected to your network months ago).
3) Upgrade the firmware on the RBS50 satellites first to v2.5.1.8
4) Upgrade the RBR50 firmware to v2.5.1.8 manually
5) Reset the router to factory settings
6) Configure the router to the point where you can restore you settings saved in step 1
7) If the settings are still corrupt or the system is not working correctly, factory reset the router again and setup manually using your screenshots from step 2 as a reference
8) Backup settings again when all is completed
