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Home Network Setup
Newbie here... hopefully I'm posting this in the right area. While my house is being renovated I am taking the opportunity to run as much Cat6 cabling through my house as practical. After looking...
Yes that will work.
Recommend using NG unmanaged swtiches for best operation and compatibility. NG GS 10x and GS30x series switches with out any character at the end of the model# would be recommended. I.e. GS 105 or GS 308.
https://kb.netgear.com/000051205/What-is-Ethernet-backhaul-and-how-do-I-set-it-up-on-my-Orbi-WiFi-System 📡 ‌‌🛰️
Recommend using CAT6A STP cabling in wall if you do have the opportunity to install LAN cabling. Good operation, performance and interference reduction and get some future proofing for speeds up to 10Gb on the wire.
slit69 wrote:
WiFi Gateway (modem/router) >> Orbi Router (RBR50) >> Unmanaged Switch >> Patch Panel >> Orbi Satellites (RBS 50) and computers.
Great idea to take advantage of this opportunity. It is not clear whether the current gateway, router, and switch are physically located at the patch panel. This could make a difference in the future. Some other considerations:
- Is the ISP entrance likely to change in the future? When my son moved from Spectrum (cable drop at the back of the house) to fiber, the fiber was connected to the front of the house. "Oh dear". Would be similar if I ever change to fiber Would plan multiple cable runs from the patch panel to the current ISP entrance and to where a new ISP would most likely choose to install (if different).
- Are you likely to consider installing security cameras, security doorbells, water sensors, garage door controllers, smart appliances (ovens, washers, microwaves) outdoor WiFi access points, etc. Connecting such devices using Power over Ethernet (PoE) satisfies the need for communication and the need for electrical power through one low-voltage cable. Otherwise, getting power to WiFi cameras can be frustrating (It was for me.)
- Now is not the time to "cheap out". The increased cost to run two cables to the same location is trivial compared to the labor cost.
- Consider certifying the installation. Those $50 network cable testers from Home Depot do not do the same thing as a "real" cable tester. (Do an internet search for "network cable certification tester". Notice the cost of Fluke testers - $2,000 - $3,000.) Someone with the right tester can certify every cable/jack in the house in a couple of hours.
Thanks for the comments/suggestions, CrimpOn.
Regarding the ISP entrance, what happened to your son is exactly what is happening now at my place. Currently have Spectrum cable that comes in one side of the house and am moving to fiber optic, which comes into the other side of the house. I am using a wireless media enclosure to centralize everything, and will have both cable and fiber optic running to it from the entry points on each side of the house. The fiber optic cable (2 runs, since I have enough cable) goes through a conduit, as any future service is likely to enter the house where the fiber optic comes in.
It may be a little short sighted, but I don't plan on wiring for cameras or other smart devices. The only camera I have right now is hooked up to a little solar panel - which works okay, but not great. The biggest issue is any of those devices would be in the older part of the house, and those walls are not being ripped apart... so access to run the cable would be a huge challenge.
Hadn't thought of the certification. I'll look into it.
Thanks again.
So glad you are thinking ahead. Conduit is especially helpful because it allows for future installations.
Cameras are often installed high. If there are ways to get cable into the roof space, that would provide flexibiliity.
Because of the difficulty in running cable through my 60 year old house, I started with WiFi cameras, but immediately ran into issues with powering them. (Not a fan of solar panels everywhere, and I like to keep electronics "out of the weather" if at all possible.)
Good Luck!