Orbi WiFi 7 RBE973
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Re: Router Log-in

IrvSp
Master

Re: Router Log-in


@PlayaGal wrote:
Hello Again IrvSp,
Wow, there is a marked difference between the user manuals and set-up instructions for the 7000 and the 7000p. The 7000 IS much clearer and has better photos and diagrams.
I have book marked both to save for future reference!

Yes, I was quite surprised myself at the degree of difference for basically the same h/w. That R7000P manaul was basically changed to fit Netgear UP mobile app I think. In my book using a wireless connection to upgrade firmware is asking for trouble. At some time a d/l will stop or lose some data when doing it that way and basically render the router inoperable. I always use a WIRED connection with the new firmware d/l'ed to my PC, unpacked there and then from the Browser GUI point to the file on my PC and complete the update. I guess with the multitude of people using phones and tablets now and might not even have access to a wired device in the home they changed to the 'dumbed down' method?

Message 51 of 67
PlayaGal
Tutor

Re: Router Log-in

Hello Irv,

You are right about simplified or dumbed down directions or mobile set-ups. I am guilty too. Anything I can accomplish with my phone means I don’t have to fire up my (old) laptop and wait and wait. I appreciate your suggestions about doing updates from the router and a pc. I will keep that in mind.
I did notice it in several places in the directions you compared.
So far, so good. I am now very pleased with this router. Thanks to you!
Model: R7000P|Nighthawk AC2300 Smart WiFi Dual Band Gigabit Router
Message 52 of 67
PlayaGal
Tutor

Re: Router Log-in

Hello IrvSp, and Schumaku,

Just wanted to give you a little update.
So far all seems to be going well with the new router and Smart Connect setting.
I have noticed that sometimes the number of devices per band is different, for example 5 on 2.4GH and 2 on the 5GH. Of course using the Smart Connect option I don’t actually see which band things are on unless I log into the router or use the Nighthawk App and look at connected devices. At one point over the weekend it noted 10 devices and included 2 wired devices which I had not noticed before or since. Today is a little different. All devices currently are using the 2.4GH band. The LEDs for both bands are blinking on the router, (unlike prior to using Smart Connect when if hubby wasn’t home the 5GH LED was not blinking). To my limited knowledge it seems that the router is operating properly.
If there are any other suggestions or concerns that you or Schumaku might have please do not hesitate to let me know!
Thank you both for your continued assistance and patience while I learn.
Have a great evening!
P.
Model: R7000P|Nighthawk AC2300 Smart WiFi Dual Band Gigabit Router
Message 53 of 67
IrvSp
Master

Re: Router Log-in

I personally just do not trust the f/w or the Nighthawk app. One reason is I have the R8000 Tri-band router. It has 2 5Ghz SSID's. The Nighthawk mobile app will NOT show me which is on what band. Can only see that into on the browser Genie.

 

One thing about SSID bands. They run usually at the slowest device speed. I'll assume that you only have 2 types of devices, a single 2.4Ghz N speed device or dual 2.4 and 5Ghz N or AC speed devices. Older G speeds possible to I guess but unless that are really old devices, rare.

 

So, AC speed devices on  Dual Band routers should all reside on the 5Ghz band, and all other N speed devices on the 2.4Ghz band. That will give you the best speed/performance on all devices. See, if you attach your AC devices to the 5Ghz SSID and then an N speed device, the performance may (this is really a statement of the max speed you can reach but if your speed capability is lower than the N speed device can attain it doesn't matter) be impacted for the AC device.

 

It is this very reason I do not use Smart Connect, I want control of what goes where.

 

I think I mentioned this before about Smart Connect before. The NG implementation is not the FULL possibly way to implement it. First if is not Dynamic. That means once a device is connected, it is assigned to a band and does not change later. It is basically static. The 'kicker' is that Smart Connect is also doing 'load leveling'. It isn't clear to me if this is really true or not? More of a problem for my R8000 as each 5Ghz band has different 'qualities' as one is considered 'slow' and the other 'fast'. That is due to the assigned Channel # to each SSID, and this makes sense as both band can then be 'split' between N and AC (the faster) devices. That said, I have seen a mix of N and AC and the 5Ghz bands were basically equal in count without regard to where the devices might work best. Manually determining which band I wanted which device to connect solved that.

 

On top of that, right now I do not have full confidence is the R8000 f/w or any Genie or NightHawk app used on it. They are all 'buggy' to some extent.

Message 54 of 67
PlayaGal
Tutor

Re: Router Log-in

Hello Irv,

Didn’t mean to add to your concerns/aggravations about “Smart Connect” and “Nighthawk app.”
I agree completely just in my short time using this router that logging into the router is the best way to get complete and accurate info. ( I only downloaded that app to set up the router initially due to the lack of instructions in the box. )

I have my doubts about Smart Connect choosing the appropriate band for each device since it isn’t consistently assigning the same device the same band. Tonight my iPhone 6s and my Husband’s 5s are utilizing the 2.4GH band and my older 5s which is turned on but I am not using is sitting alone on the 5GH. The DirecTV is using the 2.4GH tonight where other days it was using the 5GH. The router is 8ft from it. As far as load leveling, I would think it would try to put an equal number of devices on each band. For a day or two it seemed to. This makes me wonder if Smart Connect is directing anything at all. Tomorrow I am going to turn it off by logging into the router and see if I can assign any or all devices to the 5GH and if they will stay put.

I am not sure which devices would be AC devices. In addition to the 3 iPhones and Satelite TV with two receivers, we have two laptops (not turned on) and two printers. And a Roku stick.

Since we are both on the NETGEAR Community I won’t ask if I made a mistake purchasing this NG router. I have had no complaints with this brand. I do want your opinion about the model though. The Best Buy Tech guy suggested this model would be enough if not more than enough for what we run. Whatever the next model up was (that they had) he thought it was too much and a waste for our use. In your opinion would there have been a better model or one that you have more confidence in?
Thanks for your continued assistance!
P.
Model: R7000P|Nighthawk AC2300 Smart WiFi Dual Band Gigabit Router
Message 55 of 67
IrvSp
Master

Re: Router Log-in

The 'short' answer for Smart Connect, if you trust it and everything connects and works, use it. You want to get the best performance, and know the devices are connected to the band that they perform the best on, don't use it.

 

The only way to KNOW which band (SSID) a device should be on is by knowing the rating of the device in terms of 802.11 (network protocol) speed (G/N/AC etc. but some are listed at max speed, 150, 300, 600, 1200, 1900Mbps). Still, some devices just don't need the speed that they CAN connect at. However, in general, all DUAL band devices probably work best on the 5Ghz band, all others on the 2.4Ghz band. How can you tell? If the device can 'see' the 5Ghz band, use it there. Otherwise use the only band it can see (the 2.4Ghz band).

 

R7000P is basically an updated R7000 with some added features and higher connect speed due to MU-MIMO. That said, if you have no devices that work with MU-MIMO you can't attain the higher speeds.

 

The R7000 design is a good one and probably 5 years old now. Depending on your needs, and home size, it is good.

 

Is it good enough? Are there better? If your ISP speed is 10Mbps or so, probably any dual band router would work, from any vendor. Home coverage would be the deciding point probably. You device count and speeds they require are well within the capability of almost any residential router.

 

I'll tell you this. I've used a variety of router makes and models over the years. I've not been totally pleased with any of them, durability, firmware updates, warranties, and support process and methods. I looked hard when my R7000 started to have problems, and after 5 years it was time to upgrade to a Tri-band. Looked at forums like this, read warranties, and there was little difference between vendors. I looked at Tri-bands in terms of capability and reviews. All about the same. Got the R8000 and 'was' happy with it. However I needed to use SMB 1 to use the USB drive I connected to it as I wanted to. Literally fought with NG Support for almost a year. They never understood the problem or would blame it on W10. Eventually they offered to BUY BACK my R8000. I went 'shopping' again. No other vendor's Tri-band was any better from what I could see. One vendor DID clearly state the SMB 1 SHOULD BE ENABLED if on W10. I declined the offer. Better to know what I've got than take a chance on other problems.

 

Grass isn't always greener on the other side.

Message 56 of 67
PlayaGal
Tutor

Re: Router Log-in

Hello again Irv,
Thank you so much for your reply!
I am learning so much. Apparently you have been teaching NG support too.
I guess as long as this router is working properly then it should be fine. By the time I actually might need a Tri-band router you will be on to the next great technology.
Thanks again!
Have a great evening!
P.
Model: R7000P|Nighthawk AC2300 Smart WiFi Dual Band Gigabit Router
Message 57 of 67
PlayaGal
Tutor

Re: Router Log-in

Hello IrvSp,
Another question for you.
Although “Smart Connect” was turned on from logging onto the router it seems to have reverted back to where everything is on 2.4GH band except My Husband’s iPhone. (He chose the 5GH band when he initially connected. I simply chose the SSID name on the Router bottom which put all other devices in 2.4GH band.) I have just turned off “Smart Connect” and still I am kind of fighting to keep my iPhone on the 5GH band.
Recently another poster (sorry I can’t see that post while writing this) said this is a common issue. Here is my question....
Is it worth this effort or should I attempt to exchange it where I bought it? Not ever having to deal with internal settings and all I am not familiar as to whether this is normal.
Thanks for your thoughts!
P.
Model: R7000P|Nighthawk AC2300 Smart WiFi Dual Band Gigabit Router
Message 58 of 67
PlayaGal
Tutor

Re: Router Log-in

The other poster was:
MRProcess under Nighthawk WiFi Routers.
Message 59 of 67
IrvSp
Master

Re: Router Log-in


@PlayaGal wrote:
Hello IrvSp,
Another question for you.
Although “Smart Connect” was turned on from logging onto the router it seems to have reverted back to where everything is on 2.4GH band except My Husband’s iPhone. (He chose the 5GH band when he initially connected. I simply chose the SSID name on the Router bottom which put all other devices in 2.4GH band.) I have just turned off “Smart Connect” and still I am kind of fighting to keep my iPhone on the 5GH band.
Recently another poster (sorry I can’t see that post while writing this) said this is a common issue. Here is my question....
Is it worth this effort or should I attempt to exchange it where I bought it? Not ever having to deal with internal settings and all I am not familiar as to whether this is normal.
Thanks for your thoughts!
P.

From a distance it is very hard to tell what has happened? Normally, a device, especially a phone will connect automatically (if it can) to the last SSID connected to. If you 'want' to stop that, you have to FORGET the network and then connect to the desired band.

 

That means if no Smart Connect enabled, you have 2 individual bands (SSID) and YOU can choose. However, there usually is a setting on most devices WHICH is the DEFAULT connection. Some however will do something different, the last SSID connected to, the first it 'sees', or the strongest.

 

I am NOT a fan of Smart Connect, nor the implementation NG used. Other vendors might be different.

 

Smart Connect is for people that JUST WANT TO CONNECT. They don't really care about the band nor possibly performance.


It is quite possible that particular router varies from other NG Smart Connect implementations. I do not know?

 

So, if you have NOT forgotten the OLD network connections I can't even guess what would happen.

 

I suggest DISABLING Smart Connect, then go to EVERY device, have it DISCONNECT and FORGET (not all have this feature) or uncheck AUTOMATICALLY CONNECT, and then connect to the desired SSID, all DUAL BAND (they can see BOTH SSID's) on the 5Ghz band, and all other signal band devices should see only the 2.4Ghz and connect to that.

 

Check later of time to see if they DO hold.

 

A word of caution. My R8000's Attached Device list is COMPLETELY WRONG for some devices. I have at least ONE that the device says IS ON the 2.4Ghz band but the Browser Genie insisted it is on the 1st 5Ghz band... I trust the device, not the FIrmware Report via the Browser. Same goes for ANY mobile app (I have both Andriod and iOS ones) that are also wrong. You could be seeing the same thing, so check the devices to confirm where they are really connected.

 

With your DSL speed, basically either band will do. When you get faster service, maybe which band is connected to what will make a difference, but with slow DLS, it will not. Either band can deliver max speed for you without bogging down the router.

Message 60 of 67
IrvSp
Master

Re: Router Log-in


@PlayaGal wrote:
The other poster was:
MRProcess under Nighthawk WiFi Routers.

Have no idea what this is? Not a link, and search doesn't help here either? If that is a USER NAME, all links doesn't seem to be reasonable to relate to this?

 

When you have a LINK, post using the menu above, the link icon to the right of the 'smiley'.

Message 61 of 67
PlayaGal
Tutor

Re: Router Log-in

Hello Irv/Sp-
Sorry, it was just the name of a poster who noted issues with this router and the 5g band. Sorry. Next time I will send a link!
P.
Model: R7000P|Nighthawk AC2300 Smart WiFi Dual Band Gigabit Router
Message 62 of 67
PlayaGal
Tutor

Re: Router Log-in

Hello and thanks IrvSp!

I appreciate the detailed instructions!
I give up on Smart Connect.
Tonight two iPhones are connected to 5g.
I would be pleased if I could get the DirecTV to connect to 5g so possibly it would stop the buffering. Printers are probably fine on 2GH.
Incidentally the other poster stated that people were having issues using extenders and trying to connect to 5g so I disconnected that for the time being. I will follow your directions and let things sit overnight.
I will let you know what happened.
Thanks again for all your help!
Have a great evening!
P.
Model: R7000P|Nighthawk AC2300 Smart WiFi Dual Band Gigabit Router
Message 63 of 67
IrvSp
Master

Re: Router Log-in

"I would be pleased if I could get the DirecTV to connect to 5g so possibly it would stop the buffering."

 

This thread is 'long' but I think you said you had DSL at 10Mbps or is via a Dish? Is that the true measured speed or the ISP's value? In any case, this could be nothing more than the 'delivery' of the signal to the TV. Either SSID will do 10Mbps without a problem, even if the TV were a G speed device. It could be other devices using the router at the same time, or even other customers on the ISP feed to you. Also the TV being used (4K, HD, screen size, etc.).

 

I have no real experience with DSL/ADSL or Direct TV? So why can't you connect Direct TV to 5Ghz? Does 'it' see the SSID?

 

It is QUITE possible with 10Mbps service you WILL need QoS enabled so items like Video will get priority? Of course, when that is done, other services may suffer? See https://kb.netgear.com/25617/How-does-Dynamic-QoS-help-improve-my-Nighthawk-router-s-Internet-traffi... for details.

Message 64 of 67
PlayaGal
Tutor

Re: Router Log-in

Hello IrvSp,

Sorry we were up north today visiting friends and I had no cell service or internet connection to see my email.

I am not sure what the difference between the ISP value or true measured speed of 10mbps internet speed. Using the Ookla app and using the Nighthawk speed test and the one in the basic settings in the router they all are about the same. Usually between 10 and 12. We have DSL for Internet. Satelite Dish provided by DirecTV for TV programming but it uses the DSL for streaming. We have a 50 inch HD (plasma) TV. You might be right about neighbors sharing the ISP feed. I can’t say about the non relatives but our niece who lives next door and her parents who live across the street do use the Telephone Company as their ISP.

Last night I logged into the router and moved my iPhone and the DirecTV receiver to 5g along with hubby’s iPhone which always seems to stay on 5g whether I use Smart Connect or not.
This morning when I checked only his iPhone was on the 5g. I moved my iPhone and the DirecTV back to 5g. Then hubby tried to listen to music on Pandora on the DirecTV app in a bedroom but Pandora app wouldn’t open. It then occurred to me that maybe the bedroom TV receiver (genies?) will only work on 2.4g because of the distance from the receiver and it router to the bedroom. Would that be possible? I wondered if that might be because I unplugged the WiFi extender that might have been spreading out the 2.4gh signal to the bedroom.
My hunch is that this router seems to want to utilize the 2.4gh band and place devices on it or move them to it even with Smart Connect off. I mistakenly thought once I assigned a device a band myself (not using Smart Connect) that it would stay put.
Apparently I still have a lot to learn.

Thanks for your reply.
I will check in with you tomorrow. I am tired from a long day of travel and feel like I am making less sense than usual.
Have a great evening!
P.
Model: R7000P|Nighthawk AC2300 Smart WiFi Dual Band Gigabit Router
Message 65 of 67
IrvSp
Master

Re: Router Log-in

DSL as I recall deteriorates over distance from the main line. As people closer use the signal it gets slower. I could be wrong, but that was what I remember about it.

 

Here are 2 articles about this (old by the way):

 

http://www.onlinebusinesshome.com/is-distance-a-problem-for-dsl-internet-aid-16281/

http://www.plugthingsin.com/internet/connection/dsl-vs-cable-internet/

 

Of course this is not the case if the connection uses fiber to deliver the signal.

 

As for changing bands, well, the 2.4 and 5Ghz signal strenghts are different. Closer to the router, the 5Ghz remains stronger until the far end of its strenght. It drops off in strenght dramatically (distance which this happens depends on many factors, and includes home wall contruction materials and number of walls between the device and router. However the 2.4Ghz signal degrades faster but goes further, and at some point will be the stronger signal. Devices that AUTO CONNECT can sometimes switch SSID's when this happens. All devices you DO NOT want to use the 2.4Ghz SSID should have that network 'forgotten' in the device network settings. However not all devices might have this feature.

 

Some reading for you:

 

https://support.stuff-fibre.co.nz/hc/en-us/articles/226438147-What-is-the-difference-between-2-4-GHz...

https://www.howtogeek.com/222249/whats-the-difference-between-2.4-ghz-and-5-ghz-wi-fi-and-which-shou...

Message 66 of 67
PlayaGal
Tutor

Re: Router Log-in

Hello IrvSp,

I am so sorry, I just saw your response notification in my email. I didn’t realize it was new. Thanks so much for the great reading articles. At this point I have decided to continue to manually assign bands to devices (not use Smart Connect) and if I feel compelled to move one to the 5GH band like the DirecTV receiver to stream shows then I can. The bottom line is if everything connects and runs smoothly without too many hiccups or too much buffering on the TV then it’s all good. Hopefully we will get better internet service. Soon.
Thanks for everything!
Have a great weekend!
P.
Model: R7000P|Nighthawk AC2300 Smart WiFi Dual Band Gigabit Router
Message 67 of 67
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