No ethernet connectivity from RBR50 (backhaul or devices)

[schmurnan]

I think I may have a similar issue as posted here (https://community.netgear.com/t5/Orbi-Wi-Fi-5-AC-and-Orbi-with/Orbi-RBR50-No-connection-to-ethernet-...).

Everything has been working (and untouched) with my setup for a couple of years now, apart from adding the odd device here and there. All of a sudden last night, my wife noticed a loss in internet connectivity on one of our Sky boxes (UK satellite provider) and I noticed that my Xbox went offline.

I tried the usual thing of power-cycling the router, but only the Wi-Fi came back online. I figured I'd leave it overnight to sort itself out, but when I woke up this morning, no change. My lights are automated to switch off at midnight and they were all still on this morning, as the hub is connected to my router via ethernet (and I run Homebridge on my NAS for non-HomeKit devices, which is also connected via ethernet).

Fast-forward to now (some 16 hours after the initial issue arose) and after around 30 power cycles of the RBR50 and the two RBS50s, a full factory reset of my Orbi, I now have seem to have a stable issue of Wi-Fi being fine, but all ethernet-connected devices having an IP address in the 169.x.x.x range (whereas the others are 192.168.x.x), and both my satellites being connected via 5G and refusing to connect via ethernet.

I cable tested all my cables connecting directly into the router and they're all fine, so I'm guessing I have a dodgy cable somewhere in my setup, which may take some time to find.

If anybody has any other thoughts that would be appreciated.

For info:

• TP-Link Archer acting as modem only
• Orbi RBR50 in Router mode acting as router
• The 3 LAN ports on the back of the router are:
  • 1 x runs upstairs to an RBS50 that is then connected to a managed switch and controls everything in my office (2 x NAS, Apple TV, UPS, TV, PS4)
  • 1 x runs into my lounge and connects into an unmanaged switch that controls Xbox, PS5, TV, Apple TV, Sky box. An ethernet then runs from this switch through the wall into the dining room, and connects to another unmanaged switch and controls Sky box, TV, Apple TV and another ethernet runs from that switch to an RBS50
  • 1 x connects to a switch in the hall that connects to an IKEA Tradfri gateway and a Philips Hue hub

[schmurnan · Accepted solution]

I've fixed it.

I would never have known this was even a 'thing', but the unmanaged switch in my lounge - between the router and the switch into my dining room - was the culprit.

I narrowed it down to the switch, so I unplugged it and tried it elsewhere in the chain and it worked without issue, which made me doubt whether that was the issue after all. I then positioned back in its original spot, plugged it in and all of a sudden, it's working without issue. I systematically plugged everything back into it, and everything is now purring like a kitten.

I did not realise that simply power cycling a dumb switch could fix the problem (given that there are no 'brains' going on in there) nor would I have thought that that could cause the issue in the first place... how has it managed to cause an issue in the network when all it's doing it providing more ports in the network?

In answer to your latest question though, FURRYe38, so as not to be rude when you've been helping me out...

The switch in question is a Netgear GS316-100UKS 16-port Gigabit unmanaged switch. Cables are mainly Cat.5e given that Cat.6 were too thick to manoeuvre around where required (i.e. when not in a straight run). My broadband is only 45 Mbps so I'm not suffering by using Cat.5e, although ultimately I would like to move to Cat.6 as a minimum, but that's a MAJOR job involving running cables through walls (I live in a brick house) and around bends and doorways.

[FURRYe38]

Does the top ring LED turn on PINK when this happens?

https://kb.netgear.com/31030/What-do-the-LEDs-on-my-Orbi-mean

Has a power off for 1 minute then back ON with the ISP modem and router been performed since last update?
Be sure to restart your network in this sequence:
Turn off and unplug modem.
Turn off router and computers.
Plug in and turn on modem. Wait 2 minutes for it to connect.
Turn on the router and wait 2 minutes for it to connect.
Turn on computers and rest of network.

What Firmware version is currently loaded?

Be sure your using a good quality LAN cable between the modem and router. CAT6 is recommended.

The other linked thread ended up being a bad LAN cable connector on a LAN device. 

[schmurnan]

I've had various different colours throughout this process.

I've had white when it's restarting; blue on the satellites when they're syncing; and pink on the router when it's trying to establish a connection or obtain an IP address.

I've had the pink light a few times in the past - normally after a firmware update or when something somewhere has gone wrong and it's lost connectivity - sometimes get drops in connectivity through the night according to the HomeKit notifications on my phone most mornings ("All home hubs are not responding").

At the moment I don't have any lights on anything - all Wi-Fi devices are working perfectly; all ethernet devices are not.

I've powered off the router and the modem several times for one minute minimum each time, and have performed the sequential reboot of devices several times to no avail.

RBR50 is running firmware v2.7.5.4, RBS50s are running v2.7.4.24 (and continuously tell me there are no further firmware upgrades available).

CAT.6 between the modem and router (right next to each other).

So as painful as it may end up being, I think I may be at the stage of systematically cable testing every cable in my setup and trying to isolate the offending device.

[FURRYe38]

Yes I would check ethernet cabling for all wired devices to see whats going on. Disconnect ALL ethernet cables from the back of the RBR and just connect one wired PC or laptop and test.

You need to update the RBS as well to same version of FW manually using a wired PC and web browser and send the FW file package to the RBS web page:

https://community.netgear.com/t5/Orbi-Wi-Fi-5-AC-and-Orbi-with/New-RBR50-RBS50-Firmware-Version-2-7-...

[schmurnan]

I tried connecting directly to the RBR50 via ethernet this morning but my Mac was getting a 169.x.x.x address as well, so wasn't able to. So I'll have to try and find the rogue device/cable unfortunately.

---

@FURRYe38 wrote:

Yes I would check ethernet cabling for all wired devices to see whats going on. Disconnect ALL ethernet cables from the back of the RBR and just connect one wired PC or laptop and test.

You need to update the RBS as well to same version of FW manually using a wired PC and web browser and send the FW file package to the RBS web page:

https://community.netgear.com/t5/Orbi-Wi-Fi-5-AC-and-Orbi-with/New-RBR50-RBS50-Firmware-Version-2-7-...

---

Yes I have tried to manually update it (twice) - the first time it went through the process but didn't update the version number; the second time it told me I was trying to update to a version that's already installed (even though the file I have is RBS50-V2.7.5.4.img.

[schmurnan]

I feel like I'm starting to exhaust my options somewhat.

The devices that were connecting to 16.x.x.x addresses stopped after I turned off the satellites and they reconnected to the router (apart from my Eve Indoor Camera, which for now I've disconnected entirely). I've systematically tested every cable between my router and Satellite 1 and there are zero issues with any cables. Devices, on the other hand, I don't know, there could be issues that I haven't found. But I'm working on the assumption at the moment that a cable is the more likely culprit than a device (most of which are pretty new) just randomly deciding to break for no apparent reason.

I've now managed to upgrade the firmware on the two RBS50s, so all devices are now in sync in terms of firmware.

When I power cycle the router and disconnect both satellites, and then I connect a switch to the back of the router (which has my Philips Hue bridge and IKEA Tradfri gateway connected to it) everything is fine - the lights are controllable via HomeKit, the Hue and IKEA apps work perfectly. As soon as I connect Satellite 1 and the cables in the back of it, I start getting issues - Hue hub external connectivity light goes out, IKEA app won't connect to the gateway. Satellite 1 still only shows connectivity via 5G (even though I've synced the satellite to the router and all cables are plugged in).

I've just turned on satellite 2, and it's currently connecting via 5G (no ethernet connected yet). But I assume the same behaviour will happen after I sync the satellite to the router.

I really don't understand what the problem is all of a sudden - this has been rock solid for a few years now.

My gut at the moment says there's a faulty port somewhere between the router and Satellite 1, but without systematically trying every device (of which there are 12 and I've already ruled out seven) I don't know how to prove it.

I've now had this issue for over 24 hours, and I've spent 17.5 of those trying to fix this with what feels like zero progress.

[schmurnan]

UPDATE: I've narrowed it down to something connected between the router and Satellite 1. Everything else in the house is now up and running, including Satellite 2 which has re-established connectivity via ethernet backhaul to the router, which means I can at least go to work tomorrow as all my office equipment is back online.

Satellite 1 is connected to the router via a series of switches:

Router -> Lounge switch (unmanaged) -> Dining room switch (unmanaged) -> Satellite 1

• [Lounge] TV
• [Lounge] Apple TV
• [Lounge] PS5
• [Lounge] Xbox
• [Lounge] Sky Q
• [Lounge] Sonos
• [Lounge] ethernet to dining room switch
• [Dining room] TV
• [Dining room] Apple TV
• [Dining room] Sky Q mini
• [Dining room] Sonos
• [Dining room] Satellite 1

I've tested all cables in the lounge, and I've tested the cables from the router to the lounge switch, the lounge switch to the dining room switch, and the cable from the dining room switch to Satellite 1. So I need to test the cables for all devices in the dining room and then, failing that, it's a physical port on one of my devices rather than the cable.

It could also be a config. issue on one of the devices, or an IP address conflict, etc. But I've checked the IP addresses on the router and I can't see any conflicts.

[FURRYe38]

What is the brand and model# of these switches in this segment? 

What CAT# lan cable are you using? CAT6 is recommended.

[schmurnan · Accepted solution]

I've fixed it.

I would never have known this was even a 'thing', but the unmanaged switch in my lounge - between the router and the switch into my dining room - was the culprit.

I narrowed it down to the switch, so I unplugged it and tried it elsewhere in the chain and it worked without issue, which made me doubt whether that was the issue after all. I then positioned back in its original spot, plugged it in and all of a sudden, it's working without issue. I systematically plugged everything back into it, and everything is now purring like a kitten.

I did not realise that simply power cycling a dumb switch could fix the problem (given that there are no 'brains' going on in there) nor would I have thought that that could cause the issue in the first place... how has it managed to cause an issue in the network when all it's doing it providing more ports in the network?

In answer to your latest question though, FURRYe38, so as not to be rude when you've been helping me out...

The switch in question is a Netgear GS316-100UKS 16-port Gigabit unmanaged switch. Cables are mainly Cat.5e given that Cat.6 were too thick to manoeuvre around where required (i.e. when not in a straight run). My broadband is only 45 Mbps so I'm not suffering by using Cat.5e, although ultimately I would like to move to Cat.6 as a minimum, but that's a MAJOR job involving running cables through walls (I live in a brick house) and around bends and doorways.

[FURRYe38]

Ya, I've had to power cycle some non managed switches as well here and there. Seems to get into odd conditions even though there supposed to be nothing to manage or maintain on them. 

Thanks for letting us know. Ya, CAT6 would be a good move when you can. Been using CAT6 for years now. Good stuff.

Glad you got it working. Please mark your thread as solved so others will know. Be sure to save off a back up configuration to file for safe keeping. Saves time if a reset is needed.
https://kb.netgear.com/000062080/How-do-I-back-up-the-configuration-settings-on-my-Orbi-WiFi-System
Enjoy. 📡

[schmurnan]

I will definitely do that and keep it somewhere safe.

Cat.6 would be the ultimate aim, but I'm not sure how I would get it around a doorframe and under some plastic trunking as I don't think it's designed to bend on such harsh angles, whereas Cat.5e is a lot more flexible with being thinner.

Thank you for taking the time to reply and offer advice/support.

[FURRYe38]

CAT6 can bend around. I use brass screw in hooks around some door frames down in my living room get it run from one end of the room to the other end. As long as your constantly bending the cable, CAT6 will be fine at angles. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-3-lbs-1-1-2-in-Brass-Plated-Cup-Hook-25-Piece-per-Pack-803362/2...

Enjoy. 

[schmurnan]

I bought long lengths of Cat.5e and cut it to length myself, did all the crimping, etc. to make custom length cables. My router is in the hall, so I have a length that goes from the router, around the door frame of my living room, then I drilled a hole through the wall into the living room and then have trunking along the skirting board, behind my TV unit to the Netgear unmanaged switch that sits in my TV unit. Then I run another custom length from that switch, through a drilled hole from living room to dining room, and then behind the skirting board and into the TV unit in that room.

Obviously I had to run the cable through the wall before putting the RJ45 connectors on them, so they're effectively "stuck" in each room (I didn't want to drill too big a hole, so the hole is just big enough to fit the cable width through).

So I would have to do the same thing with Cat.6, assuming that's possible.

Or unless you know of a better way of getting from room to room without cutting holes everywhere? I've thought about powerline adapters but the living room and dining room are actually on different ring mains on my consumer unit.

[FURRYe38]

I put in CAT6 UTP in a wall going down from main level to a basement area a while back. Not to hard as long as you have a good fishing tool to help out in existing walls and such.  

Power line could work but thats more stuff to configure.