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Forum Discussion
Nerfball
May 20, 2023Tutor
RBR50 will not factory reset nor can I connect in any way
Last sunday we had a quick power outage and we lost everything. My backup generator came on and everything came up, or so I thought. The router and Starlink, one 10 port netgear gb switch were on a s...
michaelkenward
May 21, 2023Guru - Experienced User
This message is a bit of a mess with lots of confusing things going on. It might help if you stuck to the details without throwing in all the asides.
Let's home in on things that might make sense.
Take this:
Nerfball wrote:
I...I have been able to get another SSID up that I am positive is the router of NETGEAR75. I have no clue where this name comes from, my orbi says it should be orbi93 with some crazy password that also doesn't work. The SSID that does broadcast is the one I assigned to my network when I set it up but that password doesn't work either.
Another SSID? What are we to make of "the router of NETGEAR75".
NETGEAR75 is usually the "factory" SSID allocated to your Netgear router.
Unless you have worked hard to get rid of it, the "password" is on the label on the thing. Along with the username and password for the browser graphical user interface (GUI).
Then there is this bit:
Nerfball wrote:
The way it had me fooled for an hour or so until I jumped on it is that my Starlink connection comes with the wireless router and I was not finding that the double NAT was causing any issues, so I left it in after the last time I hooked up checking stats.
What is this "Starlink connection"? What is the modem/gateway/ONT that sits between the router and the Internet?
Newer Netgear routers try to avoid double NAT by adjusting their own settings. (Life has moved on since the era of CP/M.)) So you won't see the usually conflicts.
That could be the reason for this:
I get an assigned ip via the 192.168.1.xxx format, but the router is not 1.1. It actually comes up as 192.168.1.250
Given how many times you have reset everything, I wonder if you are flailing around rather than tackling things methodically.
Hard to tell given the random nature of your posts.
Nerfball
May 21, 2023Tutor
Ok, we can now drop the bullcrap. I program plc's, design power/control cabinets for automation for a living, that is what I like to do and do it well. Methodical is out the door when a piece of hardware doesn't do anything that others report it should be doing and then you need to think outside the box.
"
Another SSID? What are we to make of "the router of NETGEAR75".
NETGEAR75 is usually the "factory" SSID allocated to your Netgear router.
Unless you have worked hard to get rid of it, the "password" is on the label on the thing. Along with the username and password for the browser graphical user interface (GUI)"
No, get your facts straight. The orbi comes with a sticker on the label that tells me the standard SSID is orbi93 and the password is also right there. BUT, since you cannot get this thing to actually reset through all the different ways posted on these forums, you will never see this id. How it comes up with the NETGEAR75, who knows. Never seen it before.
"
What is this "Starlink connection"? What is the modem/gateway/ONT that sits between the router and the Internet?
Newer Netgear routers try to avoid double NAT by adjusting their own settings. (Life has moved on since the era of CP/M.)) So you won't see the usually conflicts.
That could be the reason for this:"
Come on, you are now making me laugh. Double NAT doesn't cause your router to quit working, at the most the address translation x2 slows things up and if you are trying to remote to a pc on the inside, you will normally not find it as the address is translated by the outside NAT device. You are now making crap up. The Starlink router can be taken out. The only reason I leave it in is so I can access directly to the dish when I am away and troubleshoot anything for my wife. Wireshark found nearly no difference except a very slight latency increase. This router has seen this setup for four plus years with no issues. My issues for fixing things before were all related to firmware upgrades that went to crap. Reflash and for the most part things worked ok, one time two days and it fixed itself.
You are posting that others are "flailing", please do not respond again as you not passing anything that is helping. The other two, Crimp and fluffy were about 90% of the other posts I was reading to figure out the different resets. How to get through them and what SHOULD happen. Nothing is correct, nothing.