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Disassemble CM1150V
My CM1150V recently got knocked off my desk. There is now a rattling sound inside and it won't power on. I figured I'd take a shot at opening it up to see if I might be able to fix it myself. Does an...
For anyone who may still be following this saga, I finally got back to my attempts to revive it.
As many suspected, my theory that the heat sink was acting as a circuit breaker was incorrect. In the attached photos, notice the four pins outlined in red. When the heatsink broke loose it hit those pins and bent them so that the two closest to the heat sink were touching. I carefully bent them back and then wondered if that had somehow caused the device to lock up. I held down the reset button for about 15 seconds then plugged it in again and voila, the lights came on.
You can see in the cyan outline the remaining pin and where it broke. I now need to figure out how to either replace that missing pin or find another way to secure the heat sink to the chip. I'm considering removing the remaining pin and using a thermal glue or tape (e.g. https://www.amazon.com/Aikenuo-Adhesive-performance-Heatsink-Computer/dp/B075FRPXQ5) to secure the heatsink to the chip.
> [...] notice the four pins [...]
I can't (yet) see your pictures. In-line images must be approved
by a moderator before others can see them. The time required varies.
Attachments have no such limitation. Of course, attachments have their
own one-per-message limitation.A set of four pins (0.1-inch spacing) might be the diagnostic serial
port, on which you might find a (5V?, 3.3V?) power supply and ground.
Shorting those should be enough to keep the whole power supply shut down
for self-protection.
antinode wrote:I can't (yet) see your pictures. In-line images must be approved
by a moderator before others can see them.Thanks. Was not aware of that and the site didn't provide any information in that regard.
Perhaps links to the images in Google Photos will work.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/BxCcbfUsZBYsH3dD6
> Perhaps links to the images in Google Photos will work.
Yup. Looks like a serial port, which could explain the symptom.
Glad to hear that you got it figured out. Any scheme which gives a
good thermal connection between the chip and heat sink should work,
whether of not it closely resembles the original.More satisfying than buying a new gizmo.