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Why is my smartconnect very stupid?
I chose the smart connect as recommended then set up 5 devices then I went to devices on the the Netgear nighthawk app and 4 of the five devices were connected to 5GHZ-2 and the one i especially wan...
stringhacker wrote:
Is setting up manually as easy as changing the passwords and ssid’s
On the different bands?? Thanks again for replying and all the great info!!Yes, that is all you need to do on the router, then on the devices, pick the SSID you want it to connect to. You only really need to uncheck SMART CONNECT and change the SSID for 5Ghz-1 or 5Ghz-2 ones, no need to change both. Both can have the same password.
stringhacker wrote:
5GHZ-2 and the one i especially wanted on 5G my LG smart TV
I assume that the smart TV supports 5GHz. Many don't.
And 2.4 GHz, with its better range, may actually deliver better performance than 5 GHz struggling to maintain a connection.
My solution to smart TVs and buffering was to get a pair if Powerline plugs and to "hard wire" the TV to the network.
Not only is the wired LAN faster and more reliable than wifi, it is also much easier to set up on a smart device. My Samsung "smart" BluRay player is really a bit dim, if not downright stupid, on that front.
Plugs that do 100 Mbps on the LAN ports are fine foir streaming,m but newer plugs do 1000 Mbps on the LAN ports if you like go-fast stripes on your hardware.
- Michael, thank you for your reply, I was considering hardwiring, until my wife said they would find my headless body in a ditch!! Haha!
We paid quite a bit to have no wires,
(Everything in the walls) thanks again!
stringhacker wrote:
(Everything in the walls) thanks again!That's what Powerline is all about. No cables to upset the other half.
But first try to fix it with wifi.
Powerline units are great, but....
Most houses are wired for 220V (in the US at least). To get the 110V they split it off. So most houses have 2 110V runs. I had a problem in one house that uses the powerline to control lighting. The controller was on one run, some lights on it as well, and some on the other run of 110V. I know an electrician was able to take care of that. Maybe a capacitor between the two 110's, not sure, I forgot.