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R7000 Speedtest slower than ISP ad and direct modem gets, affects all wired and wifi devices
Hi all. First post here...I think. So I purchased this router a few years ago and never got around to setting it up. I'm reasonably good with tech in general but networking is a weak area for me. A few months ago I set it up as my previous router finally died. The router set up was mostly painless using previous SSID and Wifi settings. I left most settings during set up to the router. UPnP was on. Smart Access for Wifi on. QoS was off. IPv6 was off. Port 3074 was open as I am a gamer. My speeds with Spectrum are 400D/20U. This is confirmed with direct wired connection from Modem to either computer or xbox series x. In fact, I reliably get about 500 down and 23 up on Series X this way.
So, for months everything was working fine, having about 10-15 wireless devices and up to 5 wired devices allowed. Note, not all were active at any given time. My galaxy phone on 5ghz near the router would pull speeds over 400d and 23u. the Series x would sometimes hit high speeds but nothing near the direct modem connection. At one point i did enable ipv6 but then turned it back off. Recently I did enable QoS but turned it off. Now...my main problem is that my xbox is reporting around 200d and only 5u. This is pretty consistent. My phone and other devices also seem to be limited in dl speeds. the biggest head scratcher is that my router speedtest is usually around 250d and 20u. I know for certain that originally it was faster than that. I am running firmware 1.9.....88. I dont recall right now as I am away from device. But its the firmware that was updated during the initial set up of the router. Another strange thing is that when I run the xbox OS network speed and statistics i get the 200d/5u. BUT, if i use edge ON the xbox and run speedtest I do get 480d and 23u very reliably. it just doesnt make sense. The router test speeds for bandwidth are never going that high and certainly not getting my subscribed 400d and 20u. So, I do have a few finicky devices and would certainly like to avoid a router reset so I thought i might check in here and see if anyone has any obvious suggestions to try first. I did read somewhere that ver .44 or something was more stable than .88. And I may have those numbers wrong. But as I mentioned things used to work fine and my speeds were much better. So any thoughts? Would reverting the router to earlier version lose all of my settings? Thanks in advance.
TL:DR - Router speedtest much slower than ISP gives and direct modem confirms.
Series X won't go above router speeds in its OS speedtest but Edge browser on Xbox DOES show actual advertised speeds. UPnP ON, Smart connect ON, QoS off, IPv6 off, all other settings default.
mcinturf wrote:
Yes, R7000 AC1900. I was wrong in the original post. It is the 8 year old model because it sat in a closet for 3 years after i got it as a gift. And that makes total sense about CTF/...it definitely seems as though its stuck in a permanent QoS on mode. I guess I could try latest firmware, see how it runs and if things are still bad do a reset?---You can try just installing the firmware and seeing how it works. It might still need the reset. Or is that a bad idea?---always worth a shot, worse case is the reset. Like should I immediately update fimware to latest let it reboot and then shut off QoS----yes, try the update and make sure those are off. I'd turn them off first and then update firmware. It it doesn't help, then try the reset. and (all the rest are already off) then go into admin and erase cfg? Ugh. Really not looking forward to getting some of these cameras and lights set up again.---If you use the same ssid/password, they should auto-reconnect. If I use the same SSID and Wifi password most things SHOULD connect. But all the wired devices wouldnt have any problems correct?---Shouldn't. I should mention two of the wired ports do go out to netgear port switches but they are passive and I have never had any problems with them.
Also, since you mentioned it. If i cant get these thing going faster with update and reset, what router would you recommend that is similar that can easily handle 500d/23u and that has the easiest set up features like this R7000 was?----Most of the newer devices should manage those speeds wired (provided they're gigabit and half decent). Wireless is a different matter as those tend to be the device itself that is the limit and not the router. because when I used my original SSID and WiFi pw and settings just about every device reconnected. I had to reset a couple of cameras and lights..and mabye a vacuum. lol. Thanks again.
8 Replies
You're actually on an older firmware.
the latest is 1.0.11.126
And I know you're against the factory reset, but I'd install the firmware and then do a factory reset.
during the install, leave qos, access control, traffic monitoring, and parental controls all disabled.
They'll slow speeds down.
Also take some speedtest sites with the understanding that they don't always pick the fastest server to test off. Its why we usually recommend people try several sites and different servers on speedtest.
Thanks for the quick response. I actually had the wrong model number, though I suspect they share updates. I was afraid that would be the recommendation. What is interesting is that, in my original post, i was saying that checks through speedtest on the xbox using its own edge browser and through my phone near router wirelessly resulted in very fast speeds 480d, 23u even when the router test in QoS was reporting 250 and 22. That is no longer the case. They all report slower now as well. So I have tried manual values, rebooted, shut it back off, rebooted and now, no matter where I test or how i test nothing goes above 200d. The xbox actually wont download a file over a very consistent 150d with QoS on of off. Its as if there is a bug in the fw that now thinks the QoS is always on no matter what. If that makes sense? I dont recall ever making changes to the settings when this started happening. However, all changes I have made since have only made things worse. And i have only changed ipv6 to auto and QoS to on.. which were originally both off. Now QoS is on again and ipv6 is off and everything is connected and working fine but I do not get speeds over 200 on any device (wired or wireless) but Up is usually accurate at around 20. that being said, all things do work and 200d and 20u is by no means horrible. Its just that I pay for 400d and will get 500d and 23u everytime when a device is connected directly to modem.
So, If i go the update/rest route, should I use the most current or should i revert back to a more stable version? And what is the proper order? If I update firmware and do a reset, will the factory state of the router still be on the firmware i used prior to reset? I believe when I initially installed the device it notified me that it needed an update and picked the 1.09...88 update. in any case I have dl 2 separate versions, the newest you mentioned and an older 1.09...42. It seems people have mentioned that older as being the last stable version. But this is really out of my area of expertise so thank you much for the assistance.
Do you have the R7000? or the R7000P?
If you have the R7000, try installing the 1.0.11.126, then do the factory reset.
Factory reset only clears out settings. It doesn't change firmware. We recommend the reset just because old settings can cause issues.
also, the R7000 is a 8 year old router. It was top of the line when it came out but it still needed certain things (cut through forwarding) to hit 200+ speeds.
And those features get disabled when qos, access control, traffic monitoring, and parental controls are on. And sadly, sometimes even if you disable those services, it doesn't re-enable CTF.