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Is there a way to rename a Netgear Nighthawk R7800?
Hi... I finally cut the last cord, returning Comcast's Gateway and using a combination of a new Arris 8200 3.1 Cable Modem and a gently used Netgear R7800 Router. Got everything installed yesterd...
I would run both 2.4ghz and 5ghz. Some devices don't have a 5ghz chip in them. Plus the 2 frequencies won't interfere with each other.
In terms of that notice, its just a 20/40hz coexistence. Its part of the 2.4ghz spec to help reduce interference. Don't worry about it. It automatically adjusts if there's other networks in the area.
Use wpa2. there's a bunch of little facts about it you can read about (i'll link) but a version of wpa2.
The Difference Between WEP, WPA, and WPA2 Wi-Fi Passwords (howtogeek.com)
You should be able to change wifi ssid/password.
Fairly easy to do.
I would start with a factory reset if you didn't because you don't know what the prior owner had setup.
And for changing the ssid/password, I'd go through the browser and not through the app. Tends to be easier/faster.
you can find manuals and guides here:
Nighthawk X4S R7800 | AC2600 Smart WiFi Router | NETGEAR Support
Thanks for the tip... I think it worked! But here's another question; Does it make sense to run both the 2.4 GHz and the 5 GHz options? My house is not sprawling, its a colonial style and the modem & router are located on the main floor where everything is hard-wired. Up on the 2nd floor theres one (1) smart TV and its using YouTube TV as its main source of media. In the basement theres two TV's, one is a smart TV and the other is using a Firestick 4K, no real problem with buffering anywhere just yet.
Reason I ask is that when I was changing names I used different names but the same password for the 2.4 & 5 GHz Network choices. So a popup appeared "Per Wi-Fi Alliance guidelines for 40 Mhz and 20 Mhz coexistence, even if you select "up to 800Mbps" mode, your products service rate might drop to 20 Mhx. This typically corresponds to 347 Mbpa performance."
Lastly, I'm curious about which security protocol to use. WPA2-PSK (AES), WPA-PSK (TKIP), or WPA2-PSK (AES)?
Thank you for the help.-Mike
I would run both 2.4ghz and 5ghz. Some devices don't have a 5ghz chip in them. Plus the 2 frequencies won't interfere with each other.
In terms of that notice, its just a 20/40hz coexistence. Its part of the 2.4ghz spec to help reduce interference. Don't worry about it. It automatically adjusts if there's other networks in the area.
Use wpa2. there's a bunch of little facts about it you can read about (i'll link) but a version of wpa2.
The Difference Between WEP, WPA, and WPA2 Wi-Fi Passwords (howtogeek.com)
My new setup is working great with one minor exception... range. I have the router centrally located in the house in our family room on the 1st floor. The only wifi needed is for the TV in our bedroom and that seems fine. The wifi is working in the basement as well. In the garage, its working but weakly. In the basement, on my iMac im clocking about 550 Mbps download speed/39 Mbps Upload. In the garage right now its more like 15 Mbps download, so I bought a TP-Link wifi range extender model AC750/RE220. I plugged it in to an outlet very close to my MacBookPro (10+ years old) which I use for quick reference when I'm in the garage working on my car. I never ran a speedtest when I had the xfinity Gateway setup, and while it worked, it was very fussy about what sites would be displayed, sometimes I'd switch between Safari and Chrome just to connect. So today's 1st question (LOL) is I'm wondering if there's anything I'm missing with regard to letting the router know there's a wifi booster out in the garage?
Down the road, I'm thinking I will hard-wire in a Netgear Gigabit Switch on the wall that separates the kitchen and garage and then run an ethernet wire from the switch to the kitchen TV which is hung on that wall. I'm also going to put my repaired 37" Vizio TV in the garage along with the spare Firestick 4K that I have. The workbench where I keep the laptop is on the opposite side of the garage and I like the idea that its more or less untethered and can be placed under the hood or in the car if needed (the car is a 51 year old Camaro) so maybe it makes sense to connect an ethernet wire to the TP-Link wifi booster too (2nd Question)?
My 3rd Question is why I get a warning popup when I try to use the browser login?
Thank you so much for the responses to my dumb questions. Its folks like you that make me enjoy these forums.
Mike
