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Forum Discussion
ReadyNAS NV+ v2 will not power on
After years of service, my ReadyNAS is no longer powering on. It will not turn on when the power button is pressed... no LCD and no fan. I don't think its the power supply because the network lin...
StephenB wrote:It could still be the supply (for instance 12 volts might have failed). Though normally the LCD will show something when the network LED is lit (they use the same power rail).
Are you sure? The NV+V2 has a soft power-on circuit and WoL capability, which usually means a separate +5VSB bus for those functions, including the NIC (though still sourced ultimately to the 12V of the brick). If the NIC LED is on when the NAS is off, then goes off when the NAS is turned on (but doesn't actually go on), that could indicate too high a load for the power supply to handle, and could be a failing power supply. If the NIC LED stays on, it's probably because something is dragging down one of the other busses or the power-on circuit is no longer functioning, neither if which is repairable.
Sandshark wrote:
The NV+V2 has a soft power-on circuit and WoL capability, which usually means a separate +5VSB bus for those functions, including the NIC (though still sourced ultimately to the 12V of the brick). If the NIC LED is on when the NAS is off, then goes off when the NAS is turned on (but doesn't actually go on), that could indicate too high a load for the power supply to handle, and could be a failing power supply. If the NIC LED stays on, it's probably because something is dragging down one of the other busses or the power-on circuit is no longer functioning, neither if which is repairable.
You know more about this topic than I do. The way I read your reply, this wouldn't be the power brick - it would be circuitry on the system board (which isnt repairable).
If the power brick is failing, and thus incapable of supplying enough power or high enough voltage to all the circuitry when it's on, but is supplying enough to supply the +5VSB DC-to-DC converter and limited attached circuitry, then it could be the supply. Checking the input voltage and current under load can help figure that out, but most users don't have that capability and it's not definative.
I would not guess the likelihood of this being the case to be high enough to do a speculative purchase of a replacement supply.
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