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Forum Discussion
Mel2
Apr 15, 2021Guide
V+12 power is out of normal range -- changing power plug worked
there's already some other threads about the same problem (see below), but as the devices get older every day, the problem may occure more often -- and of course, it's not covered by warranty.
symptoms:
* my ReadyNas Ultra2 log got flooded with warning messages like:
V+12 power is out of normal range [expected: 12.00 current: 10.82].
* later, the NAS would turn itself off, later not boot again
* the sound while booting suggested a lack of power...the disks would try to spin, but stop again
* at some point, the NAS would not even start without disks in it, but would turn off after some seconds
* replacing the power supply ("brick") would not solve the problem
other solutions:
* in the thread: Ready NAS Ultra 2 power supply issue and out of support the solution is: cleaning the inner side of the chassis! the problem seemed to be dust.
* in the thread: V+12 voltage in enclosure Internal is out of spec. (10.72 V) it's discussed, if the device can run at a lower voltage -- and revealed that you can measure the voltage on the SATA backplane. Running at higher voltage: bad idea.
* there's also a description on how to change the sensor's limits, if the sensor got corrupt (but voltage on the backplane is fine)
my experience:
* changing the power supply -- no difference
* opened and disassembled the chassis, cleaned everything -- no difference
* measuring voltage on SATA backplane: <11.0V!
* measuring the downside pins of the power plug on the main board: <11.0V -- BINGO!
solution:
* the inner pin of the power plug was corroded/worn out. Soldered cables to the pin and a new plug outside of the chassis -- works great!
pictures of today:
SATA power pins -- measure between 5 and 15: 12Vdestroyed plug, black change on plugbuilt in plug: standard part in electronicseasy accessible pins of plug
2 Replies
- SandsharkSensei
Cracked solder joints at the connector can cause a similar problem. There is usually damage to the board traces as well, so just re-soldering doesn't always help.
A wire "pigtail" is what I usually suggest. Finding the exact replacement for the connector is hard, then de-soldering and soldering takes skill and the proper equipment. A temperature-controlled soldering iron is recommended to keep from doing further damage, and getting all of the connections free simultaneously isn't easy. Just a quick tack-solder of some wires is a lot easier and can be done with a more typical home low-wattage soldering iron with just a little care. Just be sure to protect the wire from chafing where it comes through the case.
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