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Need to replace a dead ReadyNAS 422 (2-bay NAS) with something compatible
Since Netgear appears to be out of the ReadyNAS business, my RN-422 box has died leaving me with a pair of 6GB RAID drives that have about 4.5 GB of data on them. I need a replacement NAS box that ca...
WIZZYWIZ wrote:
As a follow-up question... I also have an RN424, a 4-bay version of the same model ReadyNAS on the same network with the same firmware revision the 422 had. Can I remove one pair of RAID drives from the 424 and insert the RAID pair from the 422 and have the 424 read the drives from the 422 so the data could be transferred to a new 4-bay NAS from another vendor?
Almost. What you'd do is power down the 424, remove all the disks (labeling by slot), and then insert the two disks from the RN422. Power up, and you will see all the data - and since the system boots from the disks, the configuration will be identical to the RN422. Same apps, same accounts, same hostname, etc.
You wouldn't be able to leave some of the RN424 in place, you'd need to remove them all before doing the transfer.
When you are done, you can reverse the process (power down again, restore the disks to their previous slots, and power up).
WIZZYWIZ wrote:
I'm pretty sure the RN422 failure is the internal power supply. The external power supply works fine, still delivering 12 volts. But the 422 is completely dead electrically. No response to the front panel buttons, no activity LED on the Ethernet ports, no cooling fan spinning, and no activity from hard disks. How do I get a replacement power supply? Is there a thread here that discusses replacing the internal PSU? I've got the tools and skills to do a power supply replacement.
A better question for Sandshark
But I don't think it is possible to repair or replace the power circuitry inside the chassis.
WIZZYWIZ wrote:
As a follow-up question... I also have an RN424, a 4-bay version of the same model ReadyNAS on the same network with the same firmware revision the 422 had. Can I remove one pair of RAID drives from the 424 and insert the RAID pair from the 422 and have the 424 read the drives from the 422 so the data could be transferred to a new 4-bay NAS from another vendor?
Almost. What you'd do is power down the 424, remove all the disks (labeling by slot), and then insert the two disks from the RN422. Power up, and you will see all the data - and since the system boots from the disks, the configuration will be identical to the RN422. Same apps, same accounts, same hostname, etc.
You wouldn't be able to leave some of the RN424 in place, you'd need to remove them all before doing the transfer.
When you are done, you can reverse the process (power down again, restore the disks to their previous slots, and power up).
WIZZYWIZ wrote:
I'm pretty sure the RN422 failure is the internal power supply. The external power supply works fine, still delivering 12 volts. But the 422 is completely dead electrically. No response to the front panel buttons, no activity LED on the Ethernet ports, no cooling fan spinning, and no activity from hard disks. How do I get a replacement power supply? Is there a thread here that discusses replacing the internal PSU? I've got the tools and skills to do a power supply replacement.
A better question for Sandshark
But I don't think it is possible to repair or replace the power circuitry inside the chassis.
Thanks for the tip about removing all 4 drives before inserting the 2 from the dead NAS... sounds like all I have to do then is pick a decent 4-bay NAS and a couple of new hard disks and it's only "copying time" for the most part till everything is back to normal.
Netgear has never released schematics of any ReadyNAS, and while I've not seen the internals of a 422, no other ReadyNAS I have seen has a separate internal power conversion board and I doubt the 422 is an exception. So finding and repairing a fault in the internal voltage converter is going to be quite difficult.
If it doesn't even blip any LED when you plug it in, it's going to be something basic. A bad connector comes to mind, though there are two pins for each side of the 12V, so there would need to be two faults. A bad electrolytic capacitor (which can often be determined because the top is bulging) might also do it.
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