Re: Slow WiFi speed from AC4000 X6S

DesertRat66 · ‎2023-09-26

Hi; I have the R8000P (AC4000) and about two weeks ago noticed my WiFI speed dropped precipitously from between 300-400Mbps to about 150Mbps. I am on a fiber gigabit plan through my ISP provider.

I continue to pull as expected when connected via hardware - > 950Mbps.

I have been to the router logon.net page and everything seems to be in order. By default at the top under "Wireless" appears the 2.4Ghz ( only) and below are showing my two 5Ghz channels.

My Speedtest app shows 150Mbps on average
My Nighthawk app shows consistently >740Ghz! How to explain?

Thanks!

FURRYe38 · ‎2023-09-26

Yes, or 192.168.1.1 or the routers IP address you may have configured on it. There is a FW update section in the routers web page where you navigate to where the file is and select it, then the web page does the rest.

Safari, FireFox or Opera browser will help you get to the Routers web page and update FW.

https://kb.netgear.com/23960/How-do-I-manually-update-the-firmware-on-my-NETGEAR-router

Should not impact current reservations.

View solution in original post

FURRYe38 · ‎2023-09-26

Wireless speeds will not see anything around 900mbps on 5Ghz AC. Depending on wifi design and support, most max out at around 300-500Mpbs on 5ghz AC. Nature of the beast.

https://www.increasebroadbandspeed.co.uk/realistic-speeds-wi-fi-5-and-wi-fi-6
https://www.duckware.com/tech/wifi-in-the-us.html

DesertRat66 · ‎2023-09-26

Thanks, and yes, I understand that. If you notice in my post I tried to point out that prior to the last few weeks I consistently DID get between 3--400Mbps which is what I signed up for an expect. But all of a sudden, beginning about 2 weeks ago it dropped down to 150Mbps? Why?

FURRYe38 · ‎2023-09-26

Try disabling the following and see:
Armor, Smart Parental Controls or Circle, Traffic Meter.

Has a power off for 1 minute then back ON with the ISP modem and router been performed since last update?
Be sure to restart your network in this sequence:
Turn off and unplug modem.
Turn off router and computers.
Plug in and turn on modem. Wait 2 minutes for it to connect.
Turn on the router and wait 2 minutes for it to connect.
Turn on computers and rest of network.

Has a factory reset and setup from scratch been performed since last FW update? A complete pull of the power adapters for a period of time after the factory reset then walk thru the setup wizard and setup from scratch with a wired PC and web browser. https://kb.netgear.com/22697/How-do-I-install-my-NETGEAR-router-using-the-router-web-interface
Recommend setting the default DHCP IP address pool range to the following after applying and a factory reset: 192.168.#.100 to 192.168.#.200.
https://kb.netgear.com/24089/How-do-I-specify-the-pool-of-IP-addresses-assigned-by-my-Nighthawk-rout...
https://kb.netgear.com/25722/How-do-I-reserve-an-IP-address-on-my-NETGEAR-router

DesertRat66 · ‎2023-09-26

Thanks again; to answer your question, yes, I have performed the steps you describe here - powering off(unplugging both modem and then router, starting up modem first and then the router). Did not help. I have a “sticky” situation. The last Netgear agent who assisted me about 6 months ago advised AGAINST updating to latest firmware as I’d lose the ability to reserve IP addresses. This doesn’t work for me as I’m a Control4 customer and must have every address static and assigned. If I reset router or install new firmware all hell will break lose. As a consumer we have no control over this all home universal remote (Control4) Only a tech can sort through the changes and they charge $200/hour for house calls. So cannot risk losing control over my Home Theater.

So I’m afraid at this point, unless I can get assurance from Netgear that a new firmware won’t disrupt my reserved IP’s I’m afraid I’m “stuck.”

Thanks a bunch for trying to help and I remain open to any other suggestions! 🙏

FURRYe38 · ‎2023-09-26

There is a beta FW that NG came out that fixes the IP address Reservation bug.

DesertRat66 · ‎2023-09-26

Thanks for letting me know and much appreciated. But if Beta only it’ll not be available within the app. But if this proves to be safe (insofar as enabling IP reservations, do you understand that there will be no changes to my reserved addresses? If so I can easily wait for the official release and will perform update at that time. For the time being I’m ok with the shower speeds. That said, I still don’t understand why my Netgear app shows speed of over 700Mbps!

Many Thanks 🙏🏻

FURRYe38 · ‎2023-09-26

Due to it's measuring from the router side, not from the wifi device side where the app is installed.

It's up to users to manually install Betas. NG doesn't make them available over auto update or in the NH app. Sometimes NG won't AU with official FW either. Depend on how important the FW update is. All users that got the beta have said it fixed the IP address problem. Up to you though.

Good Luck.

DesertRat66 · ‎2023-09-26

Cool, and thx again; so two final questions as below:

1]. Can I install this firmware update via my Mac, and if so, is the firmware update achieved via the “router login.net” that I’ll find in my Safari browser?
2)l Are you certain that the firmware and required reboot will not impact my currently reserved IP addresses?
Thanks!

FURRYe38 · ‎2023-09-26

Yes, or 192.168.1.1 or the routers IP address you may have configured on it. There is a FW update section in the routers web page where you navigate to where the file is and select it, then the web page does the rest.

Safari, FireFox or Opera browser will help you get to the Routers web page and update FW.

https://kb.netgear.com/23960/How-do-I-manually-update-the-firmware-on-my-NETGEAR-router

Should not impact current reservations.

DesertRat66 · ‎2023-09-26

Thanks again,

I’ll give it a go as soon as I return from holiday in a few days! Appreciate the help. 🙏🏻

FURRYe38 · ‎2023-09-26

👍

michaelkenward · ‎2023-09-28

@DesertRat66 wrote:

That said, I still don’t understand why my Netgear app shows speed of over 700Mbps!

This can certainly be confusing, especially when labelled "Speedtest Powered".

The Nighthawk app may be connected to the router with wifi, but what it does when you run a speed test is to tell the router to measure the sped that it sees on the WAN port. (The one connected to the modem.)

If you install a Speedtest app on your phone, or your PC, that too is "Speedtest Powered". But in this case it is running the test over the wifi link between the phone and the Internet.

This means that the two Speedtest tests can be very different in the results they show.

DesertRat66 · ‎2023-09-28

Thanks but I think I’ve identified the bottleneck. It is FOR SURE a problem with the Netgear firmware. I say this bc two days ago I chose to get on the 5Ghz channel within my ISP all in one modem router. Performed the same speed test on multiple devices and consistently pulled north of 500Mbps.
So clearly something has “changed “ within my network such that the current firmware doesn’t support expected speeds wirelessly though hardwired everything is perfect. So it’s a WiFi problem and specific to Netgear. And I cannot install existing firmware bc a Netgear rep told me I’d lose my reserved IP’s. Need to wait until they provide an update that doesn’t “break my network.” Worked too hard to get all of these addresses reserved and can’t afford to start all over again with expensive service calls given I’m a Control4 customer. Thanks!

michaelkenward · ‎2023-09-29

@DesertRat66 wrote:
Performed the same speed test on multiple devices and consistently pulled north of 500Mbps.

Yes, but which Speedtest. And run with what?

I say this bc two days ago I chose to get on the 5Ghz channel within my ISP all in one modem router.

That's the first reference I've seen to this "all in one modem router".

Is the R8000P connected to that?

DesertRat66 · ‎2023-09-29

Yes, sorry as I thought I’d mentioned that initially. I’m traveling now so can’t recall the specific modem model CenturyLink provided me but yes, I DO have the Netgear router connected to this modem. It’s actually a surprisingly good modem/router with good range. The primary reason I have a dedicated router is bc my Control4 techs tel me that C4 “prefers” separates in order to operate most efficiently. As a result my wireless speed remains at only 150Mbps.
Thanks

michaelkenward · ‎2023-09-29

@DesertRat66 wrote:
I DO have the Netgear router connected to this modem. It’s actually a surprisingly good modem/router with good range.

That will influence what you get out of the R8000P. It can take some careful configuration to make the most of the combination. Especially when we are talking about wifi.

Details of the modem usually appear in the list of questions asked when anyone turns up here with issues.

The primary reason I have a dedicated router is bc my Control4 techs tel me that C4 “prefers” separates in order to operate most efficiently.

That's odd. Most Internet service providers like people to use a single modem/router. That us what they usually provide when they supply the front end. It isn't usually the best option, but it makes life simpler for the ISP.

Yes, sorry as I thought I’d mentioned that initially.

Your first message just said:

I am on a fiber gigabit plan through my ISP provider.

Sadly, "fiber gigabit" doesn't mean much. Every ISP has fibre somewhere in the network, even when it delivers to you over a copper phone line. But does it reach the front door? In which case, it often goes through and optical network termination (ONT). That's not what most of us call a modem. So the exact details are crucial in troubleshooting a network.

DesertRat66 · ‎2023-09-29

Fair enough; but to be clear it is the AV installer who, based on his first hand experience with respect to Control4, insists it (somehow) matters. I presume it has something to do with the architecture of how Control4 manages the devices on the network. I can’t explain the why of it all , only that I was directed to take this path. I agree with you it should make for a more streamlined service. C4 uses the bixby protocol.
https://www.control4.com/solutions/home-network/
Be all that as it may, the issue only bubbled up like this within the last few weeks. Until then, I easily pulled down over 400Mbps throughout the home with a configuration that’s not changed.

Thanks again for your input/help.

DesertRat66 · ‎2023-10-02

So today I had hoped to resolve the bottleneck by doing two things. 1). Installed latest firmware and all IP reservations retained. So that’s good. 2) I got into my ISP modem router settings and disabled the WiFi hoping that would provide the speed I’m looking for. Unfortunately that didn’t help.
I contacted Netgear support and of course they want to sell you a service plan for $50–$150 with no guarantee they will resolve the issue. So I’m stuck with 153Mbps when my CenturyLink modem/router delivers over 600Mbps.

So if anyone has any suggestions I’d appreciate it !

michaelkenward · ‎2023-10-03

@DesertRat66 wrote:
2) I got into my ISP modem router settings and disabled the WiFi hoping that would provide the speed I’m looking for.

That does not disable the router component of the ISP's modem/router.

Going through this saga, most if which is very confusing, I can see no mention of whatever that modem/router might be.

For example, is it a fibre to your door setup, or something else. No matter, if it has a wifi there for you to turn turn off, then it has a router bit that can get in the way of your R8000P.

I thought we had been through that before, but I can see no answer from you. Just some confusing stuff about your ISP's preferences.

You need to find out how to put the ISP's modem.router into bridge (modem only) mode.

DesertRat66 · ‎2023-10-03

I have the Zyxel 3000z modem. If simple enough for a layperson like me to accomplish this I can research and or call in to CenturyLink for support, such as it is from these guys.

I have a Cat6 cable coming out of port 4 which (I believe) appears to go into my Netgear router Internet input. All of the cables are looped around and buried behind a metal plate so difficult to confirm 100% but I believe that is the case. There are also two cables that are leading into the “Aggregate ports.” As I say, it is difficult to see exactly which cable leads where, because everything is hidden behind the panel. It’s a cluster, I admit. I am attaching a few pics if the event that may help.

https://www.centurylink.com/home/help/internet/modems-and-routers/zyxel-c3000z.html

Thanks,

michaelkenward · ‎2023-10-03

@DesertRat66 wrote:

I have the Zyxel 3000z modem. If simple enough for a layperson like me to accomplish this I can research and or call in to CenturyLink for support, such as it is from these guys.

That is a DSL modem/router. Look at the row of LAN ports on the back.

There are plenty of articles out there explaining how to put it into bridge mode:

zyxel 3000z bridge mode - Google Search

Your pictures don't show that this ZyXel has a modem connection. What feeds the LAN/WAN port on the Zyxel?

If you have a modem feeding the Zyxel WAN port and the Ethernet from the Zyxel goes to your Netgear router, I am not surprised that you have a wonky network. What is the Zyxel supposed to be doing?

All looks a bit messy.

DesertRat66 · ‎2023-10-03

The Zyxel is a modem/router provided by CenturyLink and is fed by a fiber line running into the home from a CL hub. From what I understand, even though the service is fiber, once the signal hits the modem, it converts to traditional copper ethernet.But for sure the first point of contact is this Zyxel 3000z modem router which then feeds the Netgear router. Yes, it’s a complete cluster, and I suppose one day when I’m feeling rich I could hire a networking pro to sort it all out in a way none of the installers could over the years.

I will check out the articles on bridging. Do you think that in bridge mode my key devices will be recognized on my network? In other words, will my network effectively be the “same” such that every device with a reserved IP address will be seen and recognized?

thanks,

michaelkenward · ‎2023-10-03

@DesertRat66 wrote:

From what I understand, even though the service is fiber, once the signal hits the modem, it converts to traditional copper ethernet.

That sounds like witchcraft.

According to the photos you posted, the ZyXel "modem" receives a signal into the WAN port. That must come from your CL Hub, whatever that is.

The ZyXel then feeds out to the Netgear router.

My inclination would be to remove the ZyXel thing altogether and feed the WAN port on the router. Then take the router through the Internet Setup Wizard.

If that doesn't work, it should also be possible to get the network settings by looking at the browser graphical user interface (GUI) on the ZyXel. Or simply ask the ISP what settings you should use.

With your layout, I am not surprised that you have connectivity issues. Bit if a mess. Why on earth would anyone suggest putting a DSL modem in line with a cable connection.

DesertRat66 · ‎2023-10-03

I don’t know the answer to your question but tend to believe it’s a requirement of the ISP provider (CenturyLink) that the customer have a CL supported modem as a prerequisite to connect to their network.

As for “hub,” what I mean is that in these new subs that are built out the cable providers lay down stations on each small street out of which a feed can then be physically run into each respective home. One such hub or station exists about 3 hones away from me. Apparently the builder must have have their contractors run lines into each home prior to build out and over the years between Cox cable and now CenturyLink I have this cluster.

In any case I just reached out to a pro who believes he can get me cleaned up and sorted out within a few hours at most. So appreciate the help and think I’ll eventually look to hire a pro who can create one great network out of the two networks I have at the present time. I think that’s where the bottle neck is.

Thanks!