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How to unbrick the Nighthawk R7000 using OS X and TFTP
Hi, After spending a night on unbricking my R7000 and how I struggled to work with all the manuals out there but none of them actually worked. I thought I should share what actually worked for me using a MacBook instead of a W10/8/7 operating system. Below you will find a step by step aproach using OS X and what has worked for me. Prerequisites: - Default network cable (Cat5/5e/6) - USB to Network dongle for MacBook pro's (starting 2015/2016 and up) Example: https://www.apple.com/nl/shop/product/HJKF2ZM/A/belkin-usb-c-naar-gigabit-ethernet-adapter?fnode=58 - Downloaded stable/latest firmware version unpacked your desktop, use a mobile hotspot if you need to download after the brick https://www.netgear.com/support/product/r7000.aspx#download - Admin rights on the MacBook - Keep your router close to you to see results using the lights on the router Situation to start from: Somewhere my router bricked during a firmware upgrade. The crash happend whille installing and the router was showing a blinking white light when the router was reset and rebooted. The router was still operating and showing white and orange light on the LAN ports so I knew I should be able to acces the router. I was not able to acces the router via Safari using 192.168.1.1 of www.routerlogin.net. If you experience this above situatie this has worked for me to unbrick the router; Step 1: Remove any other network cables (including the WAN cable) from the router except the cable that is directly connected to your laptop. I used port 1 to conenct to my laptop, it should not matter but I just like to use the first port. Step 2: Open up your network preferences and use the admin rights to unlock your configuration settings. When you connected your USB network adapter and cable you will see that your MacBook will self-assign an ip-address which probably will start 192.169.*.* or 169.*.*.* and an exclamation mark that there is no internet connection. It will look roughly like this. In the red dropdown is where we are going to make some changes: Clicking on it opens up the following choices: At this point we will be starting to assign a manual ipadres to our Mac to we need to choose Manual (Handmatig). When you choose manual you have to fill in the following data IP-adres: 192.168.1.10 Subnetmask: 255.255.255.0 Router: Leave empty. The result will be that the USB Network dongle will directly connect with the router and if succesful it should will also state that it's connected. The reason why do manually assign an ip-adres to make sure that your Mac doesn't get the same ip-adres as the host/router. If everything went ok you will get the following screen: Status: Connected (Verbonden) Apple USB Ether wil get the assigned ip-adres that you have given in, in this case 192.168.1.10 Step 3: We will first check if we are able to ping the router in the network to and to see the status of the router. We quickly check if our router is still blinking. If it is open up your terminal os OSX, use cmd + space and type terminal and press enter) this will open the following screen: Default color white background and black text First we define where we are, normally you are in your home directory. type the following command: ls You will see an overview of you home folder including a directory desktop. We will navigate towards that directory using the following commando: cd Desktop Now you press cmd + t to open a new terminal tab. This will make it easier to ping and use commando's. Use the second tab to ping the router and see the results use the following: ping 192.168.1.1 If succesful the results will look like this: The orange part is where you need to look to see if the router is in the right state to upload the firmware manually. ttl=100 is the state that worked for me. Step 4: If you haven't done it already you unpack the zip file to your desktop and move the R7000-V1.0.*.**_**.*.*.chk on the desktop where the asterix state the version you want to put on the router. When writing this article the latest version is: R7000-V1.0.9.34_10.2.36.chk Confirm you see the file in the desktop directory using terminal ls command in the desktop directory, in terminal you are already in your desktop directory so only using ls should work. Step 5 Go to terminal and see if the router is still up on the ping tab and check te status of the ping. When the router is still up we will start the manual upload of the firmware In terminal type the following code: tftp You will see that your computername and user are gone and will be replaced by tftp. First we are going to connect to our router using the following : connect 192.168.1.1 When succesful nothing happens and you will be shown a new tftp line. To make sure we have the right settings to upload the file you use the following command: status This will display the current status of the router: To use the transfer we need to set the mode to binary otherwise it will not accept the file. This is where I struggled for more then a two hours to find this. Changing the mode to binary every step after that worked. To change the mode type: binary You can if the change worked by using status, when succesful you will see mode: octet. Now we will upload the file to the router by using the following commando: put R7000-V1.0.9.34_10.2.36.chk Remember to replace all the version number to the version you are uploading. This will take some time, when I was uploading it took me around the 110 seconds to complete. You will get a notification when it's done. From this point you will see your router rebooting and a lot of lights flashing and starting your router. It may take up to roughly 7 minutes to fully reboot and install etc. By some reason all my settings where still intact and everything was up and running on the router. Then connect the WAN cable and the other cables and login in to your router using Safari to see if everything is ok, just to be sure everything is working again and clear some caches etc reboot the router. When your router is working again in terminal just use: quit I hope this guide will help you in the future when using a Mac because the steps are actually different then using a Windows operated machine. The put -l 192.168.1.1 R7000-V1.0.9.34_10.2.36.chk by example will not work when you use a Mac. Cheers Kryptonix
WiFi 6E 6Ghz Access Point WAX630E with NETGEAR Insight Remote Management
Today NETGEAR has announced a new Insight Managed WiFi 6E Access Point. The new WAX630E is a 6Ghz Tri-band, multi-gig access point that brings the latest WiFi 6E performance to small and medium-sized businesses at an affordable price. Discover our first WiFi 6E Access Point WAX630E. “Wi-Fi 6E provides a wide, open, fast superhighway to provide the required capacity and speed. The new WAX630E is the perfect onramp for SMBs.” NETGEAR's Doug Cheung - Direct of Product Line Management of SMB wireless. In Doug's latest business blog we compare WAX630E WiFi 6E AP to the WAX630 WiFi 6 AP Read the Forbes preview of the WAX630E AP. Watch a short interview with Doug - NETGEAR Director of SMB Wireless
bad customer service agent
I called Netgear support to try to get my c300 fixed. It shows all lights solid but all of a sudden has no internet access. I called my ISP, shows a good connection. I checked with routerlogin.net, shows strong internet signal, shows my connected devices, but NONE of my connected devices stay connected to the internet for long. They ALL will be connected for a while, maybe even two hours if I'm lucky, then ALL at the SAME TIME say "connected, but no internet connection" several times a day, at ramdom, sometimes every five minutes. I have to get up and turn off router and trun it back on, wait for all the lights to go solid, then restart all of my devices. Now, for the last week, it will say that the devices are connected and internet is strong connection but devices show no internet, then either the upstream or downstream light flashes and even restarting it, I can't get my devices on the internet for hours. So I called netgear support and the very accented agent who said his name is "Dominic" said he has to first register my product. He asked when I bought it, I said June or July but I never got my reciept from Walmart cashier. HE picked June, and asked if it was the first 2 weeks or last 2 weeks and HE picked 26th. Then turned around and said it's out of its 90 days (if he had said July, it wouldn't be.) I called my husband because I remebered we had to go to the ER with our daughter later that day and it was JULY 29th!! So if it werent for the support agent, we would be covered. He refused to help me, wouldn't even listen to my problem or suggest something to try myself, blamed my ISP and told me my ISP has to fix it, AND then he gave me a bogus case number, I had him read it several times and I read it to him twice. Yet when I tried to call again, the case number cant be found. I AM NOT PAYING MY HARD EARNED MONEY BECAUSE SOME CRAPPY TECH SUPPORT GUY PUT MY PURCHASE DATE A MONTH EARLY TO TRY TO FORCE ME TO PAY!! I want this fixed, Netgear, so I can actually use the internet I pay each month for.How I activated my LTE Modem on Verizon
I am sharing this in case it is helpful to someone else who wants to use one of the NETGEAR LTE Modems (LB1120, LB1121, LB2120) on Verizon. Using the online ordering system, Verizon will not recognize the NETGEAR device ids (IMEI #s) as valid devices. From other posts I found on the internet, many people suggested activating the SIM card in another device and then moving the SIM to the LTE Modem. I did not have any unregistered devices handy, so I needed to find another solution. Knowing just enough to be dangerous, I realized that the IMEI contains manufacturer, model and serial number data that Verizon must be validating, and they have not added the NETGEAR LTE Modems for some reason. I found an IMEI online for a supported LTE device and mangled the serial number portion until it worked for me. Verizon allowed me to complete the order process, assigned me a number and accepted the connection from the LTE Modem. (I am still having an SMS issue, reported in another post, that may or may not be related to how I activated the SIM.) I found an IMEI for a Verizon MiFi device online that was: 99000329xxxxxxy Using the website IMEI.INFO this serial number breaks down as: Model: MIFI 4510L Brand: NOVATEL IMEI: TAC (Type Allocation Code)........: 990003 FAC (Final Assembly Code, aka Mfg): 29 SNR (Serial NumbeR)...............: xxxxxx CD (calculated Luhn CheckDigit)..: y I replaced the xxxxxx with more or less random digits and then figured out the checkdigit. You can use math or a tool to calculate the checkdigit, but the tool at IMEI.INFO uses Javascript validation for the checkdigit, so it is maybe faster to try the digits 0..9 to find the one that passes validation. Btw, my local Verizon store gave me a few SIM cards no questions asked. As part of the online order process, you have to enter the SIM card number after you get past the device id validation. Hopefully this information and approach will be helpful for some of you.
