Might just be able to look up the output specs on the current adapter.
I've used plenty of third party adapters and so long as the voltage and polarity match, you should be fine. Just make sure you have at least the same amount of amperage. You can have more, just not less or you'll have issues.
Could I use a remote adaptor, such as an adaptor for laptops? I would just need t ofind a 5V rated at 8A (40W).
Obviously, I would need to drill a hole in the side of the case for the cable and hook up to the low voltage terminals - pretty easy. The advantage is it would be a quick fix next time the power adaptor dies.
I'm concerned that the original internal adaptor might have special filtering or smoothing to protect the components of the switch.
Most are just simple power supplies. So long as the output voltage/polarity match, you can do whatever you want.
I've rigged up some sketchy things before and so long as the outputs the same, its been fine.
Keep in mind, that'll void your warranty but that device is almost 2 decades old. Not sure how much time/resources you want to invest in keeping in running
It's the internal power supply that has died, Delta Electronics ADP-40VP.
I'd like to remove the dead internal PSU and hook up a 5V 40A laptop type external PSU. They only cost around $20 which would be cheaper than repairing the ADP-40VP. I understand the capacitors tend to go on these. I'm not proficient enough to replace burned out capacitors.
Laptop power adapters are a bit different in regards to end poing plug and two contact connection which may differ from the internal power adapter and wiring seen there. Also may differ in amps as well.
Do the tops of the caps look popped or bulging any on the internal power supply?
Any looked burnt?
Do a search online to see if there are any internal power supplys available with similar power specs as internal if you haven't already.
I was playing on ebay and found a couple power adapters but their price was asinine. I'd probably just see what you can setup to work. You're biggest challenge is going to be figuring out what all the outputs are from the supply. I see 6x wires output with 2x different colors. If they're just running power to the same color with same voltage or if it changes. tough to know. without one to measure
Especially since a new power supple used on ebay is over $100 but a used GS724T can be found on there for under $40. Might be time to either upgrade, pickup a used one, or if you have the laptop power supply, give it a shot. You're not out a whole lot if it doesn't work.
The caps all look good - no bulging and nothing burned!
There are a few ADP-40VP's available, however, they are priced so high I might as well by a new switch. There are cheaper alternates available, however, their footprint is different, meaning they will not attach to the 4 bolt holes in the case.
I did some research on the web, apparently, the C3 cap is prone to burning out although it looks good on my switch looking down on the control board. That's not to say it has not leaked on the other side. I
I would make sure the external laptop adaptor was the same amps and voltage. Cut the wires and splice them directly to the switch. Sounds like a good idea to me but I could be missing something.
Apparently, all three wires carry the same voltage, 5V. So I would just splice and connect them all.
The power adaptor control board is very small. I don't think my hands are steady enough to remove capacitors and replace - I could give it a try. I have nothing to lose!
Hope it works and if not, used is pretty cheap. Could even grab it and swap over the power supply that way you keep your lifetime warranty (for your EOL device).
I've got the GS716T and its been rock solid for me
Ya I saw some used same model switches for less. Might get another used one and transition this one use for parts. Unless you can find a broke switch that has a working internal power adapter. I keep an eye on places like amazon, fleabay and goodwill, never know what might show up.
